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One of the things most frustrating about Williamsburg is the lack of affordable variety when it comes to restaurants. Most places on Richmond Road (a.k.a. the main drag) are either big chains or tourist traps and several of the great places are just too expensive for everyday fare. Enter Center Street Grill, a new restaurant in the up-and-coming New Town development that has eclectic food and reasonable prices. As a budding restaurant critic with a distinguished palate, I recommend it with a few disclaimers.

New Town is the latest development in Williamsburg, having overtaken the intersection of Ironbound Road and Monticello Avenue with a twelve screen movie theater, condos, shops and restaurants. Center Street Grill is the second full service restaurant to open in the area (the other being the famous pool hall and restaurant, The Corner Pocket). The restaurant is divided into several sections: the main dining area is light and modern with a view of the kitchen and a variety of artwork, courtesy of the Trimble Gallery, gracing the yellow walls. Another darker, smaller area is set off to the side – presumably this could be reserved for a private function – but it was being used by regular patrons on each of my visits. Just left of the main entrance is the bar area, which consists of both a traditional, well-stocked bar and a raw bar with several stools set up for those brave enough to handle the raw oysters and clams. There are also tables in the bar area, filled mostly with a younger, livelier crowd. The light colored wood used throughout distinguishes Center Street from the other darker places in the area, giving it a more uptown, trendy look.

Diners are greeted by servers in matching ties who bring out the restaurant’s signature barbecued beef wontons as a complimentary appetizer (for all you non-foodies, this is called an amuse-bouche). The wontons were an instant hit with my dining companions as they devoured the fried triangular confections, making sure not to miss the sweet-tangy sauce that was drizzled over them. Asian accents like the use of the wonton appear in many of the dishes, a reflection of Executive Chef “Koji” Hirose’s Japanese background. On one visit soft, slightly sweet bread was also brought to the table. If you are in the mood for an appetizer, try the baked brie ($9) – a delectable wheel of smooth, warm cheese coupled with sweet raspberry preserves and toast on the side. If you haven’t gotten any bread yet and you get the brie, ask for some – trust me. The calamari appetizer ($8) has a distinct flair with its in-house breading. The ample portion was served over sautéed sweet-hot peppers rather than with the usual marinara or aioli. I liked the combination of flavors and the use of both the squid rings and the small tentacled creatures, although the dish could use another sauce on the side to balance the salty peppers – some of the barbecue sauce from the wontons would do nicely.

One of the best things about Center Street is the availability of sandwiches and salads on the dinner menu and the resulting wide range of prices. While the entrees vary in price from $11 for a vegetarian pasta with Asian vegetables to $22 for the Sicilian ribeye and the rack of lamb, the sandwiches and salads are available for $7-13. The Waldorf chicken sandwich is a particularly fine choice – shredded pieces of chicken are mixed in a light mayonnaise dressing with grapes, walnuts and apples and served on a good quality Ciabatta roll with fresh fruit on the side. The shrimp salad was a bit of a disappointment as it lacked the robust flavor that might be provided if the listed sun-dried tomatoes were actually included in the dish. The salad was served over a bed of sliced tomatoes – note to the chef: if they aren’t in season, don’t use them! Nevertheless, the shrimp themselves were plump and tasty and provided for a nice, light main dish. Other sandwich options include a pulled pork sandwich, a vegetarian delite made with eggplant and portabella mushrooms, a soft shell crab sandwich and burgers of the beef and turkey varieties.

As for the entrees, my dining companions raved about the Dijon mustard crusted salmon and a roasted half chicken served over rice. Both were presented with a mélange of vegetables including the sweet and tender hybrid of broccoli and Chinese kale chefs have dubbed “broccolini.” Katie Falk proclaimed it, “The best broccoli I’ve ever tasted.”

On the flip side, the seared tuna entrée desperately needs to be reworked – in fact, the only thing that did work was the lightly dressed pile of mesclun greens on which the tuna was perched. The piece of tuna itself was fine - tender and cooked rare as specified, but the wasabi smeared on top was too much for anyone who is not fond of ingesting large amounts of the green horseradish on its own. I almost cried - really. The grilled eggplant slices that accompanied the fish failed as well – they were very dry with no flavor, which is a shame since a bit of olive oil, salt and pepper could have made them shine. The only way I was able to finish the tuna at all was to ask for some soy sauce and proceed to eat it sushi style, albeit with a knife and fork.

Other entrée options include duck breast, filet mignon, Surry smothered pork, beef brisket, baby back ribs and several pasta dishes.

When you do make your first (or second, or third) trip to Center Street Grille, you must try the chocolate soufflé for dessert. Since the soufflés are baked to order you have to request them when ordering your meal. The chocolate one was perfect each time I had it (twice so far), with a cake-like fluffiness giving way to a soft, silky center. When graced with a dollop of the fresh whipped cream served alongside, it is downright heavenly and a steal at $6 (I am praying the prices do not jump after the place has been open for a few weeks). The “signature dessert” – a Grand Marnier soufflé, paled in comparison with the chocolate variety. It tasted of eggs, banana and not enough sugar (isn’t Grand Marnier supposed to be an exemplary orange liqueur??) and the consistency made me think it was not baked long enough. If you are not a chocolate fan (or if you neglect to plan ahead) try the bread pudding – a sweet sandwich with bananas foster filling. Even the non-banana fans in the group hailed this dessert a success as its sugary, caramelized bananas stuck to our teeth in a satisfying sort of way. Finished with a caramel sauce and fresh whipped cream, the bread pudding will certainly not be forgotten.

Center Street Grill is a welcome addition to the Williamsburg dining scene. With a few tweaks, I see it being a favorite for townies, students and tourists alike.